When I first arrived in Gora, one thing caught me completely off guard.
The hills.
I knew Hakone was mountainous. What I hadn’t realised was just how steep everyday life in Gora could be.
I looked up at the hills I’d be walking regularly for the next few months and basically thought:
Oh no. I might be in trouble here.
Having a car suddenly sounded very appealing.
Still, I thought the hills might be decent exercise, so I decided to walk instead.
After spending a few months here, I’ve got a much better idea of what Gora is actually like.
And if you’re thinking about staying here on your Hakone trip, my answer is:
Gora can be a good place to stay. But it really depends on what kind of trip you want.
My First Impression of Gora: Wait… Is This It?
The hills weren’t the only surprise.
Gora was much smaller and quieter than I’d expected.
Around Gora Station, you’ll find some small souvenir shops, a handful of places to eat, a little post office and the well-known Tamura Ginkatsutei.
During the day, there are usually tourists around the station, so it can feel fairly busy for such a small place.
But it doesn’t take long to realise that this isn’t a big resort town packed with shops and restaurants.
My reaction was basically:
Oh… is that it?
That’s not necessarily a criticism.
If you’re here for a couple of nights, staying at a ryokan and exploring Hakone, you might not care at all.
Living here, though, is another matter. There’s no large supermarket around Gora Station where I can cheaply pick up vegetables, fruit and everyday groceries.
It made me realise quite quickly that visiting Gora and living in Gora are two completely different things.
For a holiday? Fine.
For everyday life? That’s when you start missing supermarkets.
The Hills Are No Joke
This is probably the biggest thing I’d want someone to know before booking a hotel in Gora.
Check where your accommodation is on the map — and don’t judge the walk by distance alone.
Gora is steep.
Very steep in places.
When I first started walking uphill after work, my legs hated me.
After a full shift, I’d start climbing back towards where I was staying and my thighs would basically be saying:
Seriously? We’re doing this now?
For the first couple of weeks, it was hard work.
Then, after about two or three weeks, my body adapted. My legs had become stronger and I wasn’t getting nearly as out of breath.
So yes, the hills are walkable.
But I wouldn’t use my legs after several weeks of involuntary hill training as the benchmark for someone arriving in Hakone with a 20kg suitcase.
I’ve seen tourists pulling suitcases uphill, and they often look absolutely knackered. Sometimes I feel like offering to help.
So if your hotel looks “only ten minutes from Gora Station”, check the elevation and the actual route before deciding that’s an easy ten-minute walk.
If you’re exploring Hakone by public transport, I’ve also written about my experience getting around Hakone without a car.
But Those Hills Come With a Pretty Good View
I don’t want to make Gora sound like one enormous outdoor StairMaster.
There’s a reason I enjoy walking here.
On a clear day, the views from higher up can be lovely. From the roads I regularly walk, I can see Daimonji — the large 大 character on the mountainside — surrounded by green mountains.
Walking downhill with that mountain directly ahead of me always puts me in a better mood.
I’m not going to give you some beautiful line about looking at the mountain and suddenly feeling inspired to work hard.
No.
I was still going to work.
But it did make the walk nicer.
Ryokan and hotels are scattered across the slopes, with green mountains filling much of the view. On a clear day, Gora really does feel like a mountain retreat.
Gora at Night Is Completely Different
At night, Gora becomes very quiet.
And I actually really like that.
At least around the streets I regularly walk, there aren’t crowds of tourists making noise late into the evening.
Night walks have become one of my favourite things to do here.
It’s dark, it’s quiet, the air feels fresh, and I can just walk and disappear into my own thoughts for a while.
Of course, “dark and quiet” isn’t automatically a positive for everybody.
If you’re expecting lively streets, bars and restaurants late into the evening, Gora probably isn’t what you’re imagining.
But if your idea of Hakone is more along the lines of:
ryokan → dinner → onsen → quiet evening in the mountains
then the lack of nightlife may actually be part of the appeal.
Staying Without Dinner? Plan Ahead
If your ryokan or hotel includes dinner, I don’t think the limited number of restaurants around the station is much of a problem.
You’ve got your evening meal sorted, and there are convenience stores for drinks, snacks and other basics.
But if you’re booking room only, I’d decide where you’re going to eat before arriving.
There are places to eat, but compared with Hakone-Yumoto, the choice feels limited from what I’ve seen.
I’d rather arrive knowing,
Right, I’m eating there tonight.
than finish a long day of sightseeing and only then start working out where to go.
Gora Is a Handy Base for the Open-Air Museum
One definite advantage of staying in Gora is how easy it is to reach the Hakone Open-Air Museum.
I’ve walked there from Gora Station myself, and it takes me around 10–15 minutes.
Better still, that particular stretch is relatively flat.
In Gora, that almost feels like a luxury.
No accidental leg workout required.
The museum’s nearest station is Chokoku-no-Mori, which is only a short walk from the entrance, but personally, from Gora Station I’d just walk.
For me, 10–15 minutes on a fairly flat road isn’t worth getting on a train for one stop.
Owakudani Is Easy to Reach Too
Gora also makes sense if Owakudani is high on your list.
From Gora Station, the Hakone Tozan Cable Car runs up to Sounzan. From there, the Hakone Ropeway continues towards Owakudani.
That makes Gora a convenient base if you’re planning to spend much of your time around this part of Hakone.
And this is where Gora starts to make much more sense as a place to stay.
It may not have the restaurants and shops of Hakone-Yumoto, but you’re already well positioned for some of Hakone’s major attractions.
Who Is Gora Best For?
I’d consider Gora if you want a quiet mountain stay, plan to enjoy dinner at your ryokan, and places such as the Open-Air Museum and Owakudani are important parts of your itinerary.
Having a car makes things easier too.
I’d think more carefully if you have difficulty walking, are travelling without a car, or are bringing a large suitcase.
And if food-hopping and browsing shops are a big part of your Hakone trip, Hakone-Yumoto will probably suit you better.
Gora vs Hakone-Yumoto — Where Would I Stay?
If I were visiting Hakone for the first time, I’d still choose Hakone-Yumoto.
Not because Gora is bad.
I just think Hakone-Yumoto is easier to enjoy on a first visit.
There are more places to eat and browse around the station area, you can experience the shopping street, and it works well as a transport base for exploring other parts of Hakone.
It’s also closer to Odawara, which makes arriving in and leaving Hakone straightforward.
Gora feels different.
You’re further into the mountains.
It’s quieter.
There isn’t much going on at night.
And depending on where you’re staying, you may become intimately acquainted with some very steep roads.
But perhaps that’s exactly what you’re looking for.
If you want food, shops and convenience, I’d lean towards Hakone-Yumoto.
If you want quiet evenings in the mountains and easy access to the Gora and Owakudani side of Hakone, Gora starts to look much more attractive.
Still planning your itinerary? Here’s how I’d decide how many days to spend in Hakone.
So, Is Gora a Good Place to Stay in Hakone?
It is. But…
That’s probably the most accurate answer I can give.
If you want somewhere quiet in the mountains, you’re planning to enjoy your ryokan, and Gora, the Open-Air Museum and Owakudani fit naturally into your itinerary, staying here can make a lot of sense.
If you have a car, even better.
But if it’s your first time in Hakone, you’re relying entirely on public transport, you’re carrying heavy luggage and you want plenty of restaurants and shops within easy reach, I’d personally choose Hakone-Yumoto.
Gora isn’t a worse place to stay.
It’s a different kind of stay.
And before booking your hotel here, there’s really only one thing I’d insist you check.
That hill.
