Getting Out of the Dorm and Into the Mountains
If you spend too much time going back and forth between work and a dorm, you get itchy feet. That was me today. I needed a break from my usual routine, so I took off downhill toward Hakone-Yumoto.
The moment you step onto the Hakone Tozan Railway, the scenery shifts completely. You are literally inside the mountains, surrounded by nothing but lush green trees. It’s remarkably easy on the eyes.
Quick heads-up before you plan your trip: rethink staying around Gora unless you love extreme leg workouts. The streets up there are ridiculously steep—honestly reminiscent of Baldwin Street in Dunedin. Walking up those angles will send your heart rate straight through the roof. If you want a relaxing stroll, stick to lower areas like Yumoto.
Street Food in Hakone-Yumoto: Hit or Miss?
Hakone-Yumoto Station has managed to preserve a charming, countryside vibe that feels carefully maintained to represent the classic Hakone aesthetic. The main street is packed with cafes, restaurants, and souvenir shops, so you’ll spend half your time turning your head back and forth trying to decide what to eat.
Here is my honest take on what I tried:
- Hakone Tiramisu (Soft-Serve Ice Cream): The shop presentation is cute with its quirky mascot, but the flavor was just average for me. It was fine, but as a tiramisu lover, I wanted a much richer, bitter coffee kick.
- Honey Cheese Tart at Hakone Rusk: Forget the rusks for a second—buy the cheese tart (300 yen). It is phenomenal. It tastes like a soft rare cheesecake sitting on a crumbly, buttery crust. It practically melts in your mouth without any effort, and before you know it, it’s gone. Worth every yen.
- Ikinari Dango (Sweet Potato & Red Bean Dumpling): I picked up one of these hot snacks (300 yen) on my way back to the station. It’s stuffed with sweet potato, red bean paste, and a touch of honey. The casing is deliciously chewy, and they serve it pipe-hot—watch your tongue! If you like traditional Japanese sweets, don’t pass this up.
(Local Tip: Street food lines can build up quickly during peak hours. Try visiting between 11:00 AM and 1:00 PM for lunch to avoid the biggest crowds.)
The Real Highlight: Yubadon Naokichi
The absolute highlight of the day was lunch at Naokichi, a famous spot specializing in yuba (tofu skin). I ordered the Yubadon Set (1,800 yen). It’s slightly on the pricier side, but the quality completely justifies it.
Here is how the meal breaks down:
- Fresh Tofu: Served plain. It has no artificial flavorings, but the texture is silky smooth yet holds its shape firmly. Add a drop of soy sauce, fresh ginger, and green onions, and it turns into an incredibly elegant dish.
- Yuba Roll: Subtle大豆 (soybean) aroma with a mild sweetness. Eating it with soy sauce and wasabi makes it taste surprisingly like fresh, delicate white fish sashimi. It’s light and airy—you could eat these endlessly.
- Yubadon (Tofu Skin in Savory Egg Broth): This is the main event. The soft yuba is cooked in a rich, savory egg broth served. The flavor is deep and comforting, and mixing in a bit of salted kombu makes it impossible to stop eating.
I’ve never had a meal where yuba was the main actor, and I was genuinely impressed.
Final Thoughts
Walking through streets that have maintained their traditional ryokans and mountain charm for centuries is hard to beat. The temptation to spend money on food here is nearly impossible to resist, but today was entirely worth it.
Someday, I’d love to come back not just for a day trip, but to stay overnight in one of the higher-end traditional inns with family or someone special. Until then, grabbing a hot cheese tart and a bowl of yubadon in Yumoto is the best way to recharge.
(Local Tip: Staying around Yumoto Station makes getting around much easier, especially if you want to avoid dragging heavy luggage up the steep mountain slopes of Gora.)
