15/11/2025
If you are after a challenging hike that feels tough, and wildly rewarding, Mt Ryōkami is exactly where you should be heading. With five chain-assisted sections, 1,000 meters of elevation gain and a summit panorama that stacks ridge after ridge into the soft blue, it offers a memorable day out. You can see Fuji as well if you’re fortunate! I reached the top with legs like lead, absolutely knackered. I pranced around, having a real sense of achievement. The air was fresh and crisp. The colours were bright. The summit itself sits at 1723 meters.
This hike was bloody tough for me as I frequently thought I about turning back. So I highly recommend hiking with a friend who pushes you to keep going if you tend to lose motivation on endless steep climbs!
Quick Facts — Mt Ryōkami (両神山)
- Category: Intermediate–hard
- Time: ~6 hrs return (we took ~5 hrs)
- Elevation gain: 1,000 m (start from 700m to 1723m)
- Fame: One of Japan’s “100 Famous Mountains” (日本百名山)
How to Access Mt Ryōkami
Nearest station: Seibu-Chichibu Station (西武秩父駅)
- From central Tokyo:
Take the Seibu Line from Ikebukuro to Seibu-Chichibu Station (about 80–90 minutes). - From Seibu-Chichibu to the trailhead:Very limited buses.
Take the local bus bound for Mizugakiyama-Tozanguchi or Nishizawa Gorge and get off at Ryōkami-Tozanguchi(両神山登山口).
Note: Only a few services run each day, so check the timetable carefully.
Route Overview( out and Back)
The trail begins with a narrow path. That’s a lot of ups and downs. We crossed a small stream and a wooden bridge.
The path becomes consistency steep, and the forest closes in around you. With little to see except trees and leaves until the summit, the scenery remains mostly the same, which can feel monotonous if you are hiking solo. Trekking poles help distribute weight onto your arms and make the climb rather easier.
Along the way, we bumped into Gods that were seemingly watching our efforts and cheering up, “Don’t look back, just keep pushing yourself.”
After a two-hour climb, we arrived at a small hat. It has a toilet, tables and benches, making it a perfect place to catch our breath and refuel. I took in some carbs here. I found it daunting that we would have another an-hour steeper climb to reach the summit from here…
From this point, there were chain-assisted sections over rocks and they do demand focus.
Gloves helped grip the chains and protect our hands from the dirt and rough rock.
After a very steep push, a torii gate came into view. I believed we’d finally crack it… but it’s a false summit! My knees almost gave way from the disappointment and mild heartbreak. There was still 0.6 km left to go.
The trees part ended and the view opens with an array of ridgelines fading into blue. Overlooking this view was worth the sweat and difficulty.
It took us roughly three hours to reach the summit.
We missed Mt Fuji since the cloulds was nestling on it, but I felt a deep sense of accomplishment.
It was 3 pm when we started descending, which was a bit behind as the Sun began sinking.
The Descent
We had to make sure to carefully concentrate on each step down because exposed roots and fallen leaves were slick and slippery.
My knees began to ache on the return so I picked up a sturdy fallen branch to use as a trekking pole. The return felt much easier but it is when people twist ankles or slip, so We took it easy. It took us around two hours to the trailhead.
About five hours, 1,000 m of elevation gain, five or six chain scrambles, and a cheeky false summit, but that final many-layered panorama makes every step worth it. I was shattered and happy.
- Difficulty: Intermediate–hard
- Time: ~6 hrs return (we did ~5)
- Why go: Chain fun + big views (Fuji if you’re lucky)
What to Pack for Mt Ryōkami
- Grippy hiking boots
- Light gloves for chains
- Trekking poles or a sturdy branch
- 2–3 L of water, lots of snacks
- Headtorch if finishing late
