I recently visited Kokubunji Temple for the first time.
Have you ever heard of “Kokubunji”?
I can almost hear people saying,
“I studied it in middle school, but I don’t really remember,” or “I’ve heard the name, but I’m not sure what it is.”
To be honest, I felt the same way!
What is Kokubunji? (Emperor Shomu and History)
In the mid-8th century, Japan suffered from smallpox outbreaks and poor harvests. To save the nation, Emperor Shomu ordered the construction of “Kokubunji” (temples for monks) and “Kokubun-niji” (temples for nuns) in every province. Emperor Shomu is also famous for building the Great Buddha in Nara.
The one I visited this time is the Kokubunji of the former Hida Province (modern-day Takayama). Walking through the temple grounds, I found myself imagining what life was like back in the 8th century. Letting your imagination run wild like that is one of the best parts of visiting historical sites.
The 1,200-Year-Old Giant Ginkgo Tree
Standing right in the center of the temple grounds is a massive Ginkgo tree. It is over 1,200 years old, and its trunk is about 10 meters around—so thick that it would take several adults joining hands to encircle it. It is a government-designated natural monument.
Local people have a long-standing saying:
“When the leaves of the Great Ginkgo fall, the snow will come.”
The Only Three-Story Pagoda in Hida
This pagoda is the only one of its kind in the Hida region and is a masterpiece of local woodworking skills.
It is designated as an Important Cultural Property of the prefecture.
Since its original construction in 741, it has been destroyed by fire and toppled by typhoons many times. Each time, it was rebuilt. The current structure was completed in 1821.
I visited in mid-December, just as the snow began to fall. The pagoda covered in snow was truly beautiful. You can enter the grounds at night, too. The pagoda standing under the moonlight had a quiet, powerful presence that felt even more magical.
Although I couldn’t see the Ginkgo tree glowing in its vibrant autumn gold this time, I’ll save that for my next trip! Also, if you visit during Setsubun in February, you can see “Oni” (demons) lined up at the main gate. It’s quite a sight!
If you ever have the chance to visit Hida Takayama, I highly recommend stopping by Kokubunji. Please take a moment to soak in the peaceful atmosphere and the incredible history of the Hida master craftsmen!
